While Hungarian cuisine has had some vocal champions abroad, notably George Lang in New York, it has yet to really catch on beyond the cliches of gulash and paprika. But for many years, even decades, one of the hottest eateries in one of the world’s most cosmopolitan cites, was Hungarian.

The Gay Hussar was opened in London in the 1950s. One would think it the project of a Hungarian immigrant, but indeed it was founded by Victor Sassie, child of a Swiss sailor, and Welsh mother. His love for Hungary was engendered early in life, however, when at age 17 he interned at the world-famous Budapest restaurant Gundel. He stayed on for a full seven years, soaking up all he could about Hungarian cuisine, before returning to London to open the restaurant Budapest. This would transform into the Gay Hussar, which like so many Budapest coffee houses, became popular with writers and artists, not to mention left-wing politicians who went there to trade gossip and make off-the-record deals (so many that their circle was dubbed the ‘Tokay Trots’). It was the type of place TS Eliot would mix with Downing Street elites. According the the Guardian: “Since it opened in 1953 it has been a haunt and popular watering hole of politicians, writers and artists. Devoted regulars have included the Labour grandees Roy Hattersley and Michael Foot – who celebrated his 90th birthday there – and more recently Gordon Brown. Private Eye editor Richard Ingrams had a regular table on the first floor, where he would bellow out whispered titbits from his informants. Election victories have been celebrated there and sorrows and defeats drowned with copious amounts of Bull’s Blood.”

But as other, less fattening, and more eclectic cuisines rose to prominence, and long boozy lunches became looked down on, the Gay Hussar fell out of fashion, and was set to close in 2018. Plans to save the restaurant came to naught, until at the last minute, two London restaurateurs stepped in to keep the joint alive, albeit under a new name: Noble Rot. This of course refers to the Botrytis cinerea mould that makes sweet Hungarian Tokay dessert wine so delectable. So, while the new incarnation can hardly be called Hungarian, there are Hungarian influences throughout, particularly on the wine list, where some of Tokay’s boutique vineyards get showcased. And if there’s one thing that keeps the Hussars happy, it’s internationally sought-after dessert wine from Hungary.

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