Kadarka: Hungarian Wine's Red Resurgance

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Hungary is growing ever more famous for its wine, as evinced by the prices obtained for its world renown Tokaj Aszú, or, the ‘wine of kings.’ But lesser known is that Hungary also has other grapes that are indigenous to the country. Grapes like Hárslevelű, Irsai Olivér, and Juhfark are particular to the Hungarian wine region. But the most widely drank -- at least until recently -- Hungarian varietal, and a key component to Hungarian Bull’s Blood wine, is called Kadarka. 

As Kadarka is something of the Hungarian Pinot Noir (of course Pinot Noir also wants to make that claim, though Hungarian Pinot Noir is a less successful wine in the Central European climate). Though some may dismiss Kadarka as a lightweight, or pass it over for a heartier Syrah or Portugieser, Kadarka is beloved by local drinkers for its accessibility, and for having a place in Hungarian culture. At one point in the last century, over 60 percent of the country’s vineyards were growing the grape. It is both nostalgic and nostalgia-cool with a certain crowd. Indeed, one of the most popular wine bars in Pest is named Kadarka.

True, the grape does have Balkan origins, having migrated up from Albania and through Serbia before becoming totally Hungarian. Like many great things about Hungarian culture, the former Soviet installed government did its best to eradicate the Kadarka grape, as it was not easily mass produced, and quotas of state-owned companies demanded quantity over quality. Thus Kadarka was replaced with Kekfrankos, an easier grape to cultivate.

We’re not poetic or sophisticated enough to describe wine, but the wine-focused site Taste Hungary is. This is what they say about Kadarka: “Classic kadarka boasts a vibrant crunchy red fruit like sour cherry, raspberry and cranberry, with black fruit coming to the fore in a warmer vintage. Its smooth tannins and racy acidity are always livened up with a good dose of spice, one of its hallmarks, and perhaps some floral notes.”

Kadarka is considered ‘Hungaicum,’ or something that is particularly Hungarian. Like things that were repressed as symbols of national pride, Kadarka is making a comeback with drinkers, and being ‘elevated’ from mere table wine to something connoisseurs hanker after.  Perhaps this once popular grape’s time is yet to come.

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