Hárslevelű : Hungary's complex hidden grape gem

photo by András Kovács, via Wikipedia Commons

As the leaves fall from the trees, and drizzle falls from the sky, poetic minds turn to things of beautiful decay. And there is no better way to rhapsodize about a pretty autumn day than with a glass of Hungarian Hárslevelű in hand. Hárslevelű , for those who don’t know, is one of the varietals that originate in Hungary, like its more famous cousin, Furmint. While it can be found in Germany, where it goes by the name of Lindenblättriger, or in France, where it is known as Feuille de Tilleul , it’s in Hungary where the grape is most warmly embraced.

There is no doubt that the wine it produces has a distinctive flavour: deep, crisp, and botanic. Despite its complexity, it is frequently used as table wine in Hungary, but is also mixed with Furmint grapes to create the famous dessert wines of Tokaj. The connoisseurs of Wikipedia describe the flavour of Hárslevelű as such: “Vinified as a pure varietal dry wine, Hárslevelű is capable of yielding a dense, full-bodied, green-gold wine with an intense aroma of spice, pollen and elderflowers.”

Named for the Linden tree leaf that its own leaves resemble, Hárslevelű is centuries old in these parts. Despite its age, it has yet to earn the respect of a grape like Furmint, or even Olaszrizling, Hungary’s Italian Riesling. Taste Hungary, a wine-tour and purveyor in Hungary, explains why: “Unfortunately, Hárslevelű is also tarred with a brush from Hungary’s socialist past, which doesn’t do anything to further its case. Many people still see the off-dry Debrői Hárslevelű as a reference for the variety. Debrői Hárslevelű is a brand assigned to Debrő in the Eger wine region during the planned economy and synonymous with high yields, poor quality and often added sweetness. To add insult to injury, 15 percent of other varieties, even aromatic ones such as Tramini, can be added to the brew, thus giving Hárslevelű the image of sweet, aromatic plonk.”

All that said, Hárslevelű is hitting a sweet spot, where it is becoming more sought after by wine lovers, taken more seriously by wine-makers, but still has the image of a budget grape, keeping the price reasonable. And, like Furmint, you can practically taste the autumn sun in every sip, even if its a bit clouded over.

Hárslevelű grapes via Monika at Wikipedia Commons

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