Divas, Icons and Their Costumes – House of Music, Budapest
zita kisgergely
International Divas and their impact on society are brought to life in a delightful exhibition in Budapest through artwork, posters, video, original costumes and accessories as worn by the likes of Marylin Monroe, Tina Turner, Rihanna and Lady Gaga.
By Andy Warhol, 1967
What comes to mind when hearing the word, Diva? Someone with unrivalled star power or unprofessional performer with unchecked privilege? This exhibition sets out to examine the changing meaning of the word, and how icons from the world of stage, screen and song have embraced women’s and civil rights movements along the way.
A must-see event, the temporary exhibition is currently on at the House of Music Hungary. Originating from the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the event spans opera and theatre legends of previous centuries as well as the biggest names of today. It is a truly comprehensive line-up. But it’s not just the usual suspects of western culture on display. Icons from Hungary (Lujza Blaha, Mari Jászai–learn about the personalities behind the Budapest street names) and all over the world have also been included. And many of these stars have, through their celebrity status, been able to shine a light on issues concerning women’s and human rights.
We look at just a few of the divas and icons and their costumes on display.
Birth of the Diva
The first half of the exhibition kicks off by introducing us to the original divas: the opera singers of the late 19th-century. Although adored by their fans, they faced criticism for daring to defy social convention and norms regarding what was thought of as acceptable behaviour for women.
Adelina Patti: An opera singer in Britain who was second only to Queen Victoria in fame. A savvy businesswoman, Adelina negotiated her own contracts.
Mari Jászai. Picture via Wikipedia.
Mari Jászai: The first Hungarian actress to portray the heroines of ancient tragedies, Jászai dedicated her professional life to interpreting the female characters of Shakespeare and classical French tragedies.
“The soul of man is reflected in all his actions; a liar cannot be a credible artist.”–Mari Jászai.
Attitudes surrounding women began to slowly change at the dawn of a new century, but it wasn’t an easy process. Suffragettes, campaigning for the right to vote, were met with much hostility and portrayed as unfeminine fanatics, troublemakers and disturbers of the peace. Activists smashed windows and vandalized works of art–a painting at the National Gallery in London was even slashed. But prominent females of the stage could use their influence and public persona to champion this fight for equality.
Isadora Duncan. Picture via Wikipedia.
Isadora Duncan: The legendary dancer’s signature flowing, tunic-like costume allowed a freedom of movement that rigid ballet costumes and pointe shoes did not. This liberation of the body reflected a new found equality, femininity and sexuality.
“The free modern woman will be more glorious than any woman that has yet been, more than all women in past centuries.”–Isadora Duncan.
From Showgirls to Hollywood Royalty
The anonymous showgirl or screen siren was, at a superficial level, considered an empty-headed object whose sole purpose was for decoration or titillation. But she fought her way out from under the male gaze to become so much more.
Josephine Baker in her banana skirt, 1927. Picture via Wikipedia.
Josephine Baker: Beginning her career in the chorus line, Baker rose to international fame for her dance revues in Paris that caused a sensation. She was an icon of the jazz age and the roaring twenties who went on to become a spy for the French Resistance during the Second World War. Later, Baker was a vocal civil rights activist who spoke out against racism.
Marlene Dietrich: Synonymous with androgynous glamour, the actress was known for defying sexual norms on and off screen and for her gender-bending appearance. In the 1930s film, Morocco, dressed as a man in a tuxedo, Dietrich kisses another woman on screen.
Katalin Karády. Picture via Wikipedia.
Katalin Karády: A star and femme fatale of Hungarian film, Karády had a Hollywood-style image that thousands of fans around the country emulated through their fashion choices and behaviour. She spent the war years singing melancholy songs in her unusually alto voice, reflecting the mood of the times.
Accused of being a spy for the Allied Forces by the right-wing government, Karády was imprisoned for several months before being released. After the war, she was shunned and harassed by the communist regime due to her association with General Horthy during the war. Karády fled to the West in 1951 and never returned to Hungary during her lifetime. In her later years she, like Greta Garbo, avoided media attention.
Bette Davis: A sublime actress and yet studios struggled to know how to cast her. Challenging roles playing non-stereotypical women proved to be her forte.
“When a man gives his opinion, he’s a man. When a woman gives her opinion, she’s a bitch.”–Bette Davis.
The clip above is from one of her greatest films, All About Eve. Watch it through for some legendary film lines, as well as an appearance by an as yet undiscovered Marilyn Monroe.
Elizabeth Taylor: The first actress to command and receive a million-dollar fee for her role in the film, Cleopatra. Her costume from the movie, created by Irene Sharaff, is on display at the exhibition.
Zsa Zsa Gabor in 1959. Picture via Wikipedia.
Zsa Zsa Gabor: One of nineteen celebrities of Hungarian descent to have received a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, Gabor’s career was set in motion when she won the Miss Hungary beauty pageant of 1936. Although she became a sought-after actress in Hollywood for her European style and flair, she was primarily famous for her beauty and scandalous private life–she was married nine times and divorced seven. Perhaps she was a forerunner to the reality stars and influencers of today.
“I deserve attention not because of any talent, but just because of who I am.”–Zsa Zsa Gabor.
Evolution of the Diva
Moving into contemporary times, the exhibition explores how the concept of the Diva continues to break fashion boundaries, set trends and captivate audiences with bold, larger than life personalities and innovative styles that challenge stereotypes, accepted opinion and behaviours.
Since the 1960s (the era of sexual liberation and political activism), Divas continue to march to the beat of their own drum. They expand upon the possibilities of self-expression through bold creative choices. In doing so, they encourage those who feel underrepresented or overshadowed in society to make themselves heard.
Dresses and artefacts from icons who have helped to shape the civil rights movement in particular (Aretha Franklin, Nina Simone, Ella Fitzgerald) are on display as well as costumes from artists such as Debbie Harry, Grace Jones, Madonna, Beyoncé and Lady Gaga. In addition to being ground-breaking creatively, these are women who have been beacons for their generation.
Rihanna: The global superstar and billionaire entrepreneur’s magnificent dress, coat and mitre worn at the 2018 Met Gala is on display. Reminiscent of a grand, über-sparkly pope in killer heels, the look captures the essence of Rihanna’s attitude of experimentation and pushing boundaries.
Tina Turner: The undisputed Queen of Rock n’ Roll. Her career longevity and ability to stage multiple come-backs, from surviving domestic abuse to emerging out of retirement, is inspiring. An array of stage costumes from this legendary singer, songwriter and actress gets a room of their very own.
“You couldn't cover anything up. Her legs are simply too beautiful.”– Bob Mackie, fashion designer to the stars, commenting on the rule to dressing Tina Turner.
Be prepared to be immersed in the world of the Diva, magnificent costumes of stage and screen as well as dresses worn to the Met Gala and Academy Awards. But be warned: set aside a minimum of two hours to properly digest the pomp and ceremony; it's a heady celebration of the lasting impact these performers have had on the world.
If you’re a fan of music, fashion or cultural history, do yourself a favour and see it before it closes on September 15th, 2024.
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